Rolling down the River Nene

Words and pictures by Laura Malpas

Journey through Northamptonshire, crossing over yet another bridge, we hardly give a thought about the river flowing by, unless of course there has been excessive rainfall. Generally, the River Nene quietly gets on with its business of travelling its one hundred and five miles through the East of England to the tidal waters of The Wash.

This month I’m learning about the Nene, how it shaped the land, supports wildlife, and the human settlements which have relied upon it over several millennia. The River Nene has existed for around ten thousand years, formed at the end of the last Ice Age when the melt waters carved out the Nene Valley.

Three main tributaries and countless streams join to form the Nene, the most western is the Daventry Nene, rising near Arbury Hill, Badby. This is joined west of Weedon by the Yelvertoft Nene flowing from the north. The river then flows through Kislingbury towards the Carlsberg Brewery at Northampton, where it joins the Brampton Nene flowing from Naseby. Since 1815, the Grand Union Canal’s Northampton Arm also joins the Nene at this point, and the now easily navigable river continues its journey eastwards along the wide Nene Valley, collecting more streams as it flows gently towards the North Sea.

Along the course of the Nene, archaeological evidence reveals traces of early human occupation from many past millennia, showing evidence of life, trade and travel. These include simple hunter gatherer fish traps, Neolithic stone tools and Bronze Age barrows. At Irthlingborough, an extensive Iron Age settlement was discovered close by the river. Archaeologists unearthed roundhouses, pits, and tools, offering a rare insight into the lives of ancient Britons who lived and farmed along the Nene.

The first mention of the Nene in the historic record comes from the Roman occupation of Britain, some 2000 years ago. The conquerors recognised the strategic and economic value of the river and its meadows. Several fortifications and their accompanying towns have been revealed archaeologically, a great example can be seen at Chester House Museum. Several Roman villas with glamorous mosaics and imported goods from the continent give glimpses into the lives of the wealthy living along the banks of the Nene. Piddington Roman Villa museum has some fascinating finds showing the sophisticated lifestyles lived.

Roman industry, such as gravel extraction and quarrying for roads and buildings, farming, pottery production has also left many traces near the river, along with farms and smaller settlements. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the Anglo-Saxons established themselves along the Nene now in the kingdom of Mercia.

The Vikings from Denmark Norway and Sweden also took advantage of the Nene using the river to gain access into the heart of England. By the time of the Domesday Book in 1086, the River Nene was central to a successful well-watered agricultural heartland. Medieval records show increasingly large numbers of water mills along its path, utilising the steady flow of water with to produce flour. Flour and grains were essential components of the medieval economy, generating much wealth for the landowners.

Many towns and villages expanded during this period, with fine buildings still to be seen. One picturesque example lying on the banks of the Nene is the village of Fotheringhay, once home to the Yorkist Plantagenets, a dominant Royal family in the medieval period. Mary, Queen of Scots, was executed in 1587 in the castle, and the earthworks and remnants of its keep can still be explored.

St Mary and All Saints Church, with its striking octagonal lantern tower overlooking the Nene, stands as a symbol of past wealth and importance. As Northamptonshire industrialised in the 18th and 19th centuries, the River Nene took on new significance. Parts of the river were canalised, creating a navigable waterway to accommodate larger vessels.

This was crucial for the transport of coal, timber, and other raw materials, enabling the county to prosper during the Industrial Revolution. The construction of the Northampton Arm in 1815 connected the river to the Grand Union Canal, linking Northamptonshire to London and Birmingham.

The Nene became a highway for commercial traffic, and small riverside towns, such as Oundle and Thrapston, flourished. While the rise of railways and motor transport eventually overshadowed the river’s role, the legacy of this era can still be seen in the locks and weirs that punctuate the river’s length. During the 20th century, the perceived importance of the river declined, and land development took priority, putting water quality and wetlands at risk.

Increasingly we are aware of the negative impact of over-development, with the reality of climate change and increased flooding becoming very evident. Conservation of our environment has now become a priority. Today we recognise that the River Nene is more than just a water source which enabled transport links and industrial development in the past.

There’s an increased importance being placed on the protection of our natural world. The Nene and its wetlands are a crucial habitat for wildlife, offering food, shelter, and breeding grounds for many animals. For birds, the wetlands provide essential stopover points during migration and serve as wintering sites for species like waders, ducks, and geese. They are also home to rare, protected birds, such as bitterns and kingfishers. The river supports a wide range of invertebrates, fish, and amphibians, which provide food for higher species. Wetlands also act as natural water filtration systems, improving water quality and offering flood protection by absorbing excess rainfall.

This ecological balance is vital not only for wildlife but also for human communities. The Nene Rivers Trust CIO is an organisation focussed on promoting the conservation and improvement of the Nene catchment, including the heritage, well-being and education of the communities who live and work in the area. If you are interested in learning about projects helping the natural world, and the education of the public, or even getting outside and closer to the river by volunteering your time, it’s worth checking out their website to learn more.

During the colder months, the River Nene takes on a special beauty. If you enjoy a winter walk and the excitement of a little history along the way, there are some wonderful places to enjoy all that the Nene has to offer.

Stanwick Lakes is a family friendly place to enjoy a winter walk through history and the natural world, with good paths and discovery trails, bird hides, a great playground and café.

You can enjoy scenic strolls along the Nene in the beautiful medieval town of Oundle. Nearby is the peaceful Barnwell Country Park, where the lakes and trees are particularly beautiful in winter.

The historic town of Thrapston straddling the Nene is also home to the Titchmarsh Nature Reserve. Well-marked trails through the meadows and around the lakes offer great views in winter months as flocks of birds return to roost.

Right in the centre of town, peaceful Delapré Abbey is open for scenic walks and festive events. During the Wars of the Roses in 1460, the River Nene played a part in the Battle of Northampton. Delapré Abbey, on the banks of the river, was the battlefield’s backdrop.

However you choose to spend your leisure time, there’s something for everyone to enjoy on the banks of the river. Why not wrap up warmly, and venture outside to enjoy the Nene, a river which connects us to our past and future wellbeing.

For more information about the River Nene and places to visit, please follow the links below.

neneriverstrust.org
stanwicklakes.org.uk
www.northnorthants.gov.uk/
barnwell-country-park
www.wildlifebcn.org/titchmarsh
delapreabbey.org

How do you say it?
The River Nene is often pronounced either as ‘Neen’ or ‘Nen’. It seems the further east you live the more likely you are to use ‘Neen’. Folks living in Thrapston seem to be equally split, but further west of the county you are more likely to hear ‘Nen’. This difference has sparked many an argument, but both are correct!